In the Western world today, we think in centimeters or inches. For sewing projects that don't involve fitting, it's easy to think in round numbers; perhaps different ones depending on if we prefer metrics or Imperial units. But European women in the 18th century and earlier probably picked other 'round numbers' than we do now.
Research into 18th century European (Continental and Swedish) clothing and fashion, period patterns and fabrics.
04 September 2017
27 June 2017
HSM 2017 #6: 'Metal' bobbin lace
My 'silver' lace, 2 cm (3/4") wide |
Metal lace is relatively coarse compared to linen lace, and typically uses simpler, non-figurative, designs. Heather Toomer explains in "Antique Lace" (2001) that the stiffness of the metal threads makes them unsuitable for complicated designs (page 119). Still, styles changed over time, just as for other lace.
12 June 2017
My fabric find of the year!
Close-up of today's find |
It's a pair of vintage window drapes, in a fabric imitating mid-18th century brocaded silk. All in all, I got 5 m (5.5 yd) of 110 cm (44") wide fabric for SEK525 ($55). Not super cheap, but a reasonable price for period appropriate fabric of a very unusual type. I'm especially impressed that they've even copied the use of a solid colored damask patterned ground, as seen in some period silks.
18 May 2017
Fabric samples book review
Quite some time ago, I mentioned a new book of mid-18th century fabric samples, intending to write a review of it. And now I've finally completed it.
This book is written in Swedish only; there is no parallel text in English like in "18th Century Textiles". This makes sense, as the samples are all from Swedish factories. Still, it includes a lot of samples from fabric types that may not be published elsewhere. E.g., many of the fabric names below are mentioned in "Textiles in America 1650–1870"—but without pictures.
This book is written in Swedish only; there is no parallel text in English like in "18th Century Textiles". This makes sense, as the samples are all from Swedish factories. Still, it includes a lot of samples from fabric types that may not be published elsewhere. E.g., many of the fabric names below are mentioned in "Textiles in America 1650–1870"—but without pictures.
09 May 2017
An échelle stomacher
1770s(?) stomacher at the Nordic Museum |
a) Stomacher, triangular with the lower point rounded, out of two layers of white linen with 6 silk rep ribbons sewn on close together, striped in white, red, and pink, each with a bow in the center.So, this échelle stomacher comes with two matching bows for attaching to the sleeves, making it a complete set as seen in many period portraits.
b) and c) Separate bows.
28 April 2017
HSM 2017 #4: A very wide apron
Maid plucking a bird (Pehr Hilleström, circa 1776) |
Unfortunately, 18th century Swedish body linens were rarely preserved for posterity. As far as I know, there are a few shirts and some royal baby clothes, but no women's shifts or linen aprons. One of the reasons for this is that the paper mills used linen rags as their raw material, and from 1738 and on, a law required each Stockholm household to deliver a certain quantity of linen rags to the paper mill—otherwise they would be fined. This may have improved the inflow of rags to paper mills in the 18th century, but it doesn't exactly benefit today's historical dressmakers. So we have to turn to other sources of inspiration instead.
14 April 2017
Durán Textiles: new cotton prints in May
Durán Textiles are discontinuing their current line of screen-prints, to introduce a new line of block-prints. Here's what their site says:
Edit:
A couple of months have passed, and the new prints still haven't made it to their website. I hope any issues will be sorted out soon, so we'll get to see their new products.
New block prints in MaySeveral of their current fabrics are mid-18th century, but their new line focuses on later eras that are popular in mainstream historical costuming. I look forward to seeing their new fabrics!
A small scale production of 10 block prints will be available from mid May. The fabric is a light weight 100% cotton quality, 120 cm width, in a varaity of floral designs. This quality is suitable for period dresses from late 18th century- to mid 19th century. The fabrics are also suitable for folk costume (bunad) aprons.
Edit:
A couple of months have passed, and the new prints still haven't made it to their website. I hope any issues will be sorted out soon, so we'll get to see their new products.
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