HSM 2022 #7: "Reverse Revers" pockets

Pockets with "revers".

Intrigued by a pair of late 18th century French pockets of an unusual model, that narrowed at the top even though there weren't any side seams or pleats, I searched for photos of other pockets that might explain what they looked like underneath the trim.

HSM 2022 #2: "Third Hem's the Charm" neckerchief

My completed neckerchief.

A quick and easy project, for a necessary period accessory. I've stitched one before, with a rolled hem that turned out really ugly. This time I decided to do my research first, to get it right.

Duran Textiles: new silk ribbons

Duran Textiles, the Swedish company producing historical fabric reproductions, has redesigned their website. They're introducing an entirely new range of 5.5 cm (2-1/8") wide silk ribbons with pretty flower designs, at about – gulp – SEK600 (EUR60) per meter ($55/yd). They don't say outright which products are new, but I think there are a few new cotton prints too. 

"Portrait of a Lady", with flower pattern ribbons,
from Anton Raphael Mengs' workshop
(public domain, {{PD-US}} ). Source: Wikipedia .

Blue linen at Ikea

Ikea's "Aina" linen in blue-grey

 We visited Ikea today (we're fully vaccinated, but still very cautious, and do most of our shopping online), and I was delighted to see that their linen fabric now comes in a nice shade of blue as well as the white and natural they've carried for a long time (there are also a couple of other colors, that are less useful for historical sewing). 

It instantly made me think of the extant 18th century blue pocket hoops and panniers in Sweden and Germany, so of course I had to buy some for future needs!

Ikea's linen is 150 cm (59") wide and has 15 warps and 11 wefts per cm (about 38 warps and 28 wefts per inch).

HSM 2018 #8: The trimmed underpetticoat

My project is inspired by a petticoat in the collections of the Chester County Historical Society, depicted and patterned in Sharon Burnston's book "Fitting & Proper".

A partridge petticoat in a pear plum tree.

In Germany, tailors made women's clothes

For a long time, tailors made outer clothes for both men and women, while female seamstresses and home sewers made linen undergarments. Then in late 17th century France and Britain, female couturières and mantua makers got the right to sew mantuas and other women's clothes. The tailors continued to make stays, stiff-bodied court gowns, and riding habits for women, in addition to menswear.

Similar changes took place in Germany and Sweden too, but the tailors there hung on much longer to the privilege to make women's clothes, so the transition from tailors to dressmakers was delayed for a century or more. In the meantime, tailors in the German tradition continued to develop cutting methods for women's clothes as well as men's; J.S. Bernhardt's two-volume book from 1810‒1811 is the earliest and the most well-known printed example. Sewing techniques also differ between extant garments, depending on if they've been made in a tailor's or dressmaker's tradition. 

HSM 2018 #3: A frumpy Swedish bedgown

My bedgown, folded in half along the center back.

There are several scaled-down patterns based on extant Swedish bedgowns. Some of them are in the popular book "Kvinnligt mode under två sekel" which can be found in many Swedish libraries, and there are a couple of free patterns online in Duran Textiles' newsletters (here and here).

In spite of this, I chose to spend $30 on a full-scale pattern, that is 15 years old to boot…